Lead

Jan 10 14 7:04 PM

Tags : :

How to Install Backup Lights (KC)

This install will show you how I installed KC Backup lights on my FJ. I used KC brand lights, but this would be a very similar install for any other brand.

Part 1 – Relay Installation

Tools/Materials
KC Backup Flood Lights Item 517
KC Relay harness from box
16 gauge wire
Butt splices
Ring Terminal (Yellow) – large enough to fit a 10mm bolt.
Crimping tool
Wire Cutter
Wire Stripper
Electric tape
Heat Gun
Dremmel Stylus or a Small Drill
1/8 drill bit
Wire snake
Plastic Panel Remover
Philips Screw Driver

From the contents of the box I used the Relay Harness and the included #10 sheet metal mounting screw (not in the pic)


In the “trunk” I removed the access panel for the emergency bottle jack and removed the jack and tools. The bolt on the right, attaching the jack bracket would be a good place to make a ground connection.


The Ring terminal on the black wire (ground) for the relay harness was too small, I cut if off and connected a larger Ring terminal to fit the 10mm bolt.


The green wire you connect to the battery (provides power to the lights once the relay is energized) already had the fuse and the ring terminal attached. There is no way to fit this through the firewall. I uncoiled the wire and laid it on the ground along the FJ to decide where to cut the wire near the fuse holder. I needed enough wire to run it from the battery under the hood and through the firewall and additionally run the wire from the back of the FJ to the front kick panel, near the driver’s seat.


With the green wire cut, I moved on to the white wire (provides power to relay, turns on your lights). I want my rear light to be powered by a switch (if you want your back up lights to turn on without a switch, during backing up, you could tap into the rear wire harness located in the rear jack compartment) so I needed to attach more wire so I can run the white wire to the front of the FJ with the green wire. I attached more 16 gauge white wire with a butt splice and measured it out to the same length of the green wire attached to the relay.


It is time to start fishing the green and white wires. Pull straight up on the two panels over the door sills to expose the wire run.


Grab your plastic panel remover, if you use a screwdriver to pry, you could damage something.


Shove the panel remover between the plastic panel (in the rear passenger section) and the weather stripping. Pull the panel remover towards yourself, do this from the bottom and up 2 feet, a few clips will pop loose. There is very little room, but enough that you can now slide your wire snake from the jack compartment forward until you can pull it out of the crack. You can see the wire snake in the pic.


Tie your wires to the snake with electrical tape, very tightly. Then gently pull them through to the front of the FJ.


The green and white wires are successfully pulled through. Pull the wires all the way through, but leave enough in the rear to mount the relay. Remove the tape and the snake.


Open the plastic clips in the wire run and add your green and white wires.


The green and white wires are fully installed in the wire run.


Get your drill, time to mount the relay. I used a Dremel Stylus, it fits great in small places. Attach the 1/8 drill bit.


I drilled a 1/8 hole and screwed the relay to the FJ in the jack compartment. I chose that location as you can place your hand through the hole and feel where the screw will come out. I don’t like to drill when I don’t know what is behind. Now you can see (above relay) the jack mount bolt is removed, take your black wire with the ring terminal and place the bolt back into the hole. The relay is grounded.


Now under the hood.
Grab the green wire attached to the fuse holder and ring terminal. Remove the fuse from the fuse holder and remove the 10mm nut from the positive battery connector. Then install the ring terminal on the green wire. Replace the nut.


The other end of the green wire needs to get run through the firewall. There are 2 places you can use, empty plastic plug near the top of the pic or the large plug with the factory wires running through it at the bottom of the pic. As you can see the plug on top I have is filled, so I am going to use the one below it. You need to place a hole through the plastic plug, I used a screw driver to make the hole, need to push hard to get through, make sure you are not going to hit any other wires on the other side.


You need to remove the kick panel on the driver’s side. Grab the top of the dead pedal and pull it toward you.


Unscrew the plastic nut, then grab the plastic kick panel that is to the left of the nut and pull it towards you.


From the inside of the driver side foot well looking up and toward the front of the FJ, you can see the other side of the screw driver. I removed the screw driver and used the drill with the 1/8 bit and widened the hole in the plastic plug.


I pulled the green wire through from under the hood to inside the FJ. The green wire entered near the red wire in the pic, the pic highlighted the end of the green wire in my hand vs where it entered. There is a sleeve over this side of the plug, once you push the green wire though, you need to stick your hand under the sleeve and grab the green wire, you won’t see it.


Connect the green wire you just pulled through with the end of the green wire that is in the factory wire run from earlier. I used a heat shrink – waterproof butt splice, I heated it with a heat gun after crimping. Since this is sitting on the floor next to the door, it could get wet somehow, even though it will be under the floor. Tuck the wire under the floor to the left.


Next Part 2 - Lights Install

Part 2 – Lights Install

Tools/Materials

PIAA 74117 1/34” Bracket Clamp
3/8” Wire loom that came with light
1/2” Wire loom
Black & White 16 Gauge Wire
Red 18-22 Gauge heat shrink – waterproof butt splices
Large Yellow Ring Terminal and Butt splice
Crimping tool
Wire Stripper
Wire Cutter
Heat Gun
Allen Wrenches for Clamps
Ratchet set for Lights and Clamps
Large Black Zip Ties
Electrical Tape
Tube of Silicone

Install the Clamps to the roof rack and then mount your lights, make all your adjustments, until you have the lights positioned the way you want them to stay.


On to wiring the lights. Cut off the crappy connector that is attached to the white (positive) wire and cut of the ring terminal on the black (negative) wire for both lights. Attach a red(it just fits on a 16 gauge wire, the lowest profile option) heat shrink butt splice to each wire. Measure enough wire to go the width of the roof, down the back of the FJ and through the wire boot in the door jamb, into the jack compartment. Do this for all 4 wires. Crimp on the connectors and shrink them on with a heat gun.


Measure out the 3/8” wire loom. 1 Piece long enough to span from the furthest light across the roof rack to the roof, to next to the back driver’s side roof rack footing. Measure a 2nd piece from the closest light to the same place. Run the wires inside of both looms and then zip tie them to the roof rack.


Slide the rain gutter cap out, by pulling toward the back of the FJ. I put a notch on both side of the cap, this allows the set of wires for each light to go under it when reinstalled.


I cut a notch in the end of the cap, to allow the wires to come out.


I wrapped the wires in electrical tape where they go under the cap and go back out, extra protection.


The cap is reinstalled.


Bundle the wires with electrical tape so they form a square, it ensures they will fit nicely into the 1/2” wire loom.


Measure the 1/2” wire loom so it is long enough to go from where the wires are dangling to when it will enter the boot in the door jamb. Slide the wires into the loom. Make a small hole in the top of the boot. Attach the wires to the wire snake with electrical tape the fish them into the jack compartment. Remove the wire snake.



Pull all 4 wires tightly into the jack compartment (ensure the wire loom is to the left of the weather stripping), I wrapped the wires with electrical tape where they enter the boot. Crimp the 2 black wires to a single yellow ring terminal. Remove the 10mm bolt that was used as a ground for the relay and add this last ring terminal to the ground bolt.


The red wire (power out from relay to power lights) on the relay, cut the connector off and cut it to length. The white wires will need to be connected by a single connector to the red wire.


Grab the tube of silicone


Silicone the area around the wires going into the door jamb boot. I slid my wire loom up temporarily to apply the silicone. This will prevent any water from following the wires and dumping it into jack compartment.


Finish product with the lights Installed.


Next Part 3 - Switch Install

Part – 3 Switch Install

Tools/Materials

DPDT Switch (VJDJD66B-00000-000)

Switch Face Plate “Rocker” (VVASC77-18B)
Red 18 gauge wire tap
Ring terminal
Insulated female terminals
18 gauge wire of different colors
Tap a circuit mini

10Amp mini fuses
Wire cutter
Wire stripper
Crimping tool
Ratchet set

I wanted to wire my switch so it would allow my back-up lights 3 options.
Option 1, auto-on when backing-up (switch pressed down), Option 2, turn them on with switch when key is in ignition (switch pressed up), Option 3, neutral, the lights are Completely Off (switch in the middle)

To gain access to a wire that is powered when the FJ is in reverse. You need to remove the large panel under the steering wheel, it also goes around the ignition.

Remove the bolt at the bottom left.


Remove the bolt on the bottom right.


Pull the panel towards you, a few clips will pop and it is out.


Time to start running wires for the switch.
The first wire will be in the wire harness to the left of the fuse box, it has a red wire with a yellow stripe. This wire is powered when in reverse. Cut a piece of wire (I used Blue) leaving sufficient length for attaching it to the switch and tap the wire.

You should use a fuse on this wire to protect the wire you added to provide power to the relay.



Next a black (ground) will be connected to the ground point under the driver side kick panel removed in Part 1. If you look under the mess of wires, you’ll see the factory ground bolt. Attach a ring terminal to a piece of 18 gauge black wire and leave sufficient length to reach switch.


I need a wire that is powered when the key is in the ignition. I used a Tap a circuit mini, placed 2 fuses in it and placed it into an empty fuse slot powered with the key. I cut a piece of green wire and crimp it to the tap a circuit mini and leave sufficient length to reach the switch.


I spliced extra wires for all my upcoming switches. Ignore the red wire, it is not used for this switch.


Crimp on an insulated female wire terminal to each wire.


The wires were attached to the switch in this order, looking at the back of the switch.
Top – Black (ground)
Next down – Blue (power when in reverse)
Next down – White (power out of switch to relay), this is the white wire left from Part 1
Bottom – Green (power when key in ignition)


For the installation of the Switch Plate, see here
http://rollmeover.forumer.com/how-to-install-2-new-switch-plates-under-the-driver-s-side-v-t1307582.html

Place the 20A fuse into the fuse holder under the hood from Part 1.


Success!!


Fuse Panel for switch wiring